The idea that a perm automatically means stiff, crunchy curls needs to retire. That version existed, and plenty of us still picture it, but it’s not the whole story anymore.
The newer look is softer, more shaped, and way more wearable. Straight hair goes in, then bend, body, curls, or soft bangs come out, depending on what you ask for and how your stylist cuts it.
I like this comeback because it solves a very real beauty problem: hair that falls flat before your second coffee. These looks cover the range, from loose waves to tight short curls, so you can see what actually fits your life before booking.
What Is a Modern Perm, and Who Is It Best For?
A perm is a chemical service that reshapes the internal bonds of your hair. Your stylist wraps sections around rods, uses a solution to break those bonds, then uses a neutralizer to set the hair into its new curled shape.
What changed is the vibe around it. The goal isn’t maximum uniform curl anymore. It’s movement, body, bend, and texture that looks planned around your haircut instead of sitting on top of it.
Cold perms use chemical solution without heat and tend to give tighter, more defined curls that look strongest when hair is wet or damp. Digital perms use heat-regulated rods and usually give a looser, springier wave that looks softer when dry.
You’re a good candidate if your hair is straight, fine, slippery, or won’t hold a curl for long. Healthy thick hair can work beautifully too. I’d skip or wait on a perm if your hair is heavily bleached, high-lift blonde, breaking, or gummy when wet, because a perm can push fragile hair too far.
Curls With Soft Bangs
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@studiolilylondon / Instagram
This is the look I keep coming back to. Lily of @studiolilylondon created a curly perm on long dark hair, then cut in soft bangs so the face-framing pieces curl with the rest of the hair.
The key detail is the cut. She calls the layers invisible layers, which matters because curls need room to move. Ask for a cut planned for curls, not just a perm on top of the haircut you already have.
For styling, Curlsmith Weightless Air Dry Curl Cream is a lightweight leave-in that detangles and hydrates without making curls look coated. Use the Paul Mitchell Detangler Comb in the shower to work through knots gently. This is my pick from the group, especially with a cream sweater, simple silver hoops, and clean makeup.
Long, Twisty Waves
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Tight curls can feel like a big jump, so this look from @permedhair is the softer entry point. The long brown waves start loose and twisty near the roots, then get fuller through the ends.
For your consultation, bring pictures of the dry result and say waves, not ringlets. That wording matters because a wave perm and a curlier set can head in very different directions once rods come out.
Moroccanoil Curl Control Mousse is an argan oil-infused mousse that shapes curls and helps tame frizz. Scrunch it into wet hair, then use the LIGOLIG Universal Diffuser on low so the wave pattern dries with more shape. Go light near the roots if your hair gets weighed down fast.
Spiral Ringlets
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Kaix Hair (@kaixhair) compared a spiral perm and a traditional rolled perm on the same person using the same rod sizes, which is actually helpful if you’ve ever wondered why the wrap matters. The spiral side had long, glossy black ringlets that fell in neat coils past the shoulders.
The difference is pretty simple. Spirals keep a more consistent circular shape down the length, while rolled perms can look more S-shaped toward the top. For very long hair, this stylist’s pick is the spiral wrap.
Moroccanoil Curl Defining Cream gives soft hold while conditioning and smoothing frizz, so it suits ringlets that need shape but not crunch. A Kitsch Satin Pillowcase is a smooth zippered satin pillowcase for hair and skin, which helps keep curls from getting roughed up overnight.
Short and Tight
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@louislevanti / Instagram
Perms aren’t just a long-hair thing. Louis Levanti (@louislevanti) marked five years of perms, with Janine Jarman (@janinejarman) wrapping his short hair on rods for tight curls. His caption credits Curl Cult and Hairroin Salon.
On short hair, the rod size and placement basically shape the whole look. Pick a stylist whose short curly work you’ve already seen, because there’s less length to hide behind.
Marc Anthony Strictly Curls Defining Lotion is a light cream-gel made for curl definition and frizz control. Scrunch it through damp hair and stop there. Too much can make short curls look overly set, so keep the amount small.
Marc Anthony Strictly Curls Defining Lotion
A light cream-gel for curl definition and frizz control.
Before you book, save photos of dry hair results, be clear about waves versus ringlets, and ask for a cut that supports the curl pattern, because the haircut is what keeps a modern perm looking soft.
