Millennial Skin

Dark Lipstick Looks Expensive Until It Flakes

Black cherry, berry, wine, red and sheer plum lips from five makeup pros, plus the prep and textures that keep deep color smooth instead of patchy.

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Your lips don’t have oil glands, which feels rude when you think about how much dark lipstick asks of them. So when a plum, wine or black-cherry shade starts flaking by lunch, it’s not always the lipstick being dramatic. Sometimes the color is just sitting on dry, uneven texture.

A deep lip is still the fastest way I know to make a simple face look finished. Mascara, brushed brows, a rich lip and you’re suddenly giving “planned outfit,” even if the outfit was decided in the three minutes before leaving.

The trick is choosing the right finish and doing just enough prep. Glossy sticks hide texture best, pencils give control, matte liquids need smooth lips, and sheer balms are the low-maintenance lane. I pulled together five dark lip looks that feel polished without turning your mouth into a full-time project.

How Do You Keep Dark Lipstick From Flaking?

Start with the surface. If your lips are rough, pigment grabs every dry spot and the shade turns patchy fast. Buff gently once or twice a week with a soft scrub or washcloth, but skip scrubbing if your lips are cracked or sore.

Before color, use balm, give it a minute, then blot. That last part matters because too much slip makes lipstick move around. For matte formulas, go thin. One light layer looks smoother than a thick coat that cracks when you talk, sip coffee or eat.

Finish matters too. Gloss and sheer balm are more forgiving because shine blurs texture. Pencils grip and let you build depth. Liquid mattes can look incredible, but they’re pickier, so I’d save them for days when your lips are already in decent shape.

Black cherry with a glossy finish

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@artbyhector / Instagram

artbyhector (@artbyhector) called this a berry combo, and the shade sits right in that black-cherry sweet spot. It reads almost burgundy-black in low light, then catches shine through the middle of the lips so it doesn’t look flat.

Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Stix in Black’r Berry is the glossy deep berry here, and Fenty Beauty Trace’d Out Lip Liner in Whiskey gives it that soft brown frame. I like a brown liner under dark berry because it makes the edge look smoky instead of stamped on.

Line your natural shape, blur the pencil inward with a fingertip, then swipe the gloss stick on top. Reapply through the middle when you need to refresh it and leave the edges alone. I’d pair this kind of lip with a camel coat, gold hoops and clean skin because the color already brings the mood.

Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Stix in Black'r Berry

Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Stix in Black'r Berry

A glossy lip stick in a deep black-cherry berry shade.

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Fenty Beauty Trace'd Out Lip Liner in Whiskey

Fenty Beauty Trace'd Out Lip Liner in Whiskey

A brown pencil liner for a soft, smoky edge under deep shades.

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A matte berry for the bold days

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@jessi_makeup / Instagram

jessi_makeup (@jessi_makeup) went for a raspberry-plum matte, which is a gorgeous lane for anyone who likes berry but doesn’t want it to go too vampy. The pink in the shade keeps it lively, especially on fair to medium skin tones.

wet n wild Megalast Catsuit Matte Liquid Lipstick in Red Berry Recognize gives that deep raspberry feel, while NYX Lip Lingerie Liner Stain in Up All Night adds a black-cherry outline that stays put. This is the section where I’d be strict about prep because matte liquid color will find every flake.

Use balm, wait, blot, then put on one thin coat. Don’t layer it up just because the color looks pretty. Thick matte lipstick is usually where cracking starts, especially near the corners of your mouth.

wet n wild Megalast Catsuit Matte Liquid Lipstick in Red Berry Recognize

wet n wild Megalast Catsuit Matte Liquid Lipstick in Red Berry Recognize

A creamy matte liquid lipstick in a deep raspberry berry.

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NYX Lip Lingerie Liner Stain in Up All Night

NYX Lip Lingerie Liner Stain in Up All Night

A waterproof liner stain in a black cherry shade with transfer-proof wear.

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Wine, built with two pencils

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@kingmalimagic / Instagram

kingmalimagic (@kingmalimagic) created the kind of wine lip that looks rich without needing heavy makeup around it. Building the color with pencils keeps the shape controlled, which is helpful when you’re working with a shade this deep.

Bobbi Brown Lip Pencil in Red gives you the brighter base, and e.l.f. Cream Glide Lip Liner in Plum & Get It adds the deep plum layer. Fill the lip with the red first, then press the plum along the corners and lower lip to make the shade look more dimensional.

Pencils are less slippery than lipstick, so they don’t run into every tiny line as quickly. For a softer finish, dab a clear balm through the middle after the pencil sets. Not too much, just enough to take the dry edge off.

Bobbi Brown Lip Pencil in Red

Bobbi Brown Lip Pencil in Red

A velvety, creamy lip pencil for lining and filling the whole lip.

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e.l.f. Cream Glide Lip Liner in Plum & Get It

e.l.f. Cream Glide Lip Liner in Plum & Get It

A creamy, high-pigment deep plum liner with a semi-matte finish.

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The red that never misses

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@valentinabuccelli / Instagram

valentinabuccelli (@valentinabuccelli) made the case for a crisp red lip with a sharp black wing and bold brows. A true red has that instant brightening effect, but it also demands a cleaner edge than berry or plum.

Hourglass Unlocked Satin Creme Lipstick in Red 0 is the polished satin option, Maybelline Super Stay Matte Ink in Pioneer gives a blue-red version that holds on, and NYX Lip Lingerie XXL Matte Liquid Lipstick in Untamable is the warmer brick-red pick. Brick is a little softer than classic red because the brown in it tones everything down.

For a clean red, line first and sharpen the corners with a tiny bit of concealer on a flat brush. I love a satin red with a black dress and simple gold jewelry, but for a workday or dinner when you don’t want the lip to feel quite so loud, brick is the one I’d pick.

Hourglass Unlocked Satin Creme Lipstick in Red 0

Hourglass Unlocked Satin Creme Lipstick in Red 0

A satin cream lipstick in a rich, classic red.

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Maybelline Super Stay Matte Ink in Pioneer

Maybelline Super Stay Matte Ink in Pioneer

A blue-red liquid lipstick with long-wearing, transfer-resistant color.

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NYX Lip Lingerie XXL Matte Liquid Lipstick in Untamable

NYX Lip Lingerie XXL Matte Liquid Lipstick in Untamable

A matte liquid lipstick in a warm brick red.

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Sheer plum that doubles as lip care

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@beautylookbook / Instagram

Diana of beautylookbook (@beautylookbook) rounded up plum lip colors, and I love that the easiest ones are balms and glossy tints. This is the move when your lips feel tight but you still want color.

Clinique Almost Lipstick in Black Honey gives that sheer berry-plum wash that seems to adjust to your natural lip color, and Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm in Brown Sugar adds soft brown shine with a balm feel. Neither one asks for a perfect lip line, which is the whole appeal.

LANEIGE Lip Sleeping Mask is the overnight step I’d add when flakes keep ruining your lipstick. Use a thicker layer before bed, then go sheer the next day if your lips still feel dry. My favorite pick here is Black Honey because it gives depth without making you babysit the mirror.

Clinique Almost Lipstick in Black Honey

Clinique Almost Lipstick in Black Honey

A sheer, lightweight tinted lip balm in a deep berry-plum.

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Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm in Brown Sugar

Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm in Brown Sugar

A shea butter lip balm with sheer color and shine.

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LANEIGE Lip Sleeping Mask

LANEIGE Lip Sleeping Mask

An overnight lip treatment with shea butter and vitamin C.

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Dark lipstick looks expensive when the texture is smooth, not when the formula is fighting flakes. My quick pick is the glossy black-cherry route because it gives drama, shine and a little forgiveness all at once.

How we pick

We read the ingredient list the way you would read a contract: closely, skeptically, and all the way to the fine print. Nobody pays for placement, and a product only makes a list if we would spend our own money on it again.