Millennial Skin

How to Cut and Shape Toenails So They Stop Ingrowing

Cutting toenails the right way helps stop them growing in. Go straight across and leave a little white showing, with a few tips for a happier toe.

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For years I cut my toenails the same way I did my fingernails, giving every corner a tidy little curve, and for years I’d get the same tender spot on the side of my big toe about two weeks later (always, somehow, on a day I needed to wear sneakers).

That curve turns out to be the habit most likely to cause an ingrown toenail, and fixing it is easier than I would have guessed. You cut toenails straight across, you stop about level with the tip of the toe with a thin strip of white left, and if a corner feels sharp you dull it with a file instead of rounding it. Here’s the stuff I wish somebody had told me ten years ago, plus how to tell when a sore toe belongs with a podiatrist and not with you sitting on the bathroom floor.

Why toenails don’t behave like fingernails

A fingernail has open air on three sides, which is why you can file it into an oval and get away with it, since nothing is pushing on it from the side. Your toenails have a much harder life. They spend all day in shoes (some of mine are snugger than I’d like to admit), they’re flatter and thicker and slower growing, and the skin on either side gets pressed against them with every step.

Round one off and the corner ends up shorter than the middle. As the nail grows forward, that short corner has to find its way back out past skin that’s crept over it while you weren’t looking. A lot of the time it makes it. Every so often the sharp cut edge snags and digs in instead, and that’s how you get an ingrown nail. Both the Cleveland Clinic and the American Academy of Dermatology list trimming habits and tight shoes among the most common causes, ahead of anything you inherited.

How short is too short

I understand wanting to cut them super short so you can ignore your feet for a while, but that’s the habit that gets people into the most trouble. Go past the point where the nail meets the skin and the soft tip of your toe bulges forward into that space, so now the nail has to grow back through tissue that’s in the way. Podiatrists generally say to leave the edge roughly even with the tip of the toe, with a little white showing but no long overhang catching on your socks.

Too long isn’t perfect either, since a nail that keeps knocking into the end of your shoe can bruise or lift. If I’m going to miss, though, I’d rather miss on the long side, because I can always trim a little more in a couple of weeks and I can’t put any back.

Dry nails cut cleaner

Soaking your feet first feels like the right thing because that’s what happens at a pedicure, but for the actual cutting it backfires. Wet nails get soft and bendy, so they tear more than they cut, and that torn, ragged edge is the kind that hooks on socks and skin.

My routine is boring. I wash my feet, dry them off, and trim. If your nails are so hard they feel like they’d crack, a five to ten minute soak is fine, just dry your toes really well before the clippers come out. Soaking makes a lot more sense before a foot file or a chemical peel, so that’s when I let myself have the long bath.

Softening thick nails first

PurOrganica Urea Cream 40% for feet jar

If your toenails feel closer to horn than to nail, spend a few weeks getting them ready and trimming gets much less dramatic. I massage PurOrganica Urea Cream 40% into the nails and any calluses at bedtime, since urea softens hard keratin over time, and then the nails cut straight instead of cracking. It’s a rich, fast-absorbing cream with aloe and tea tree, and a little goes a long way on thick skin. I pull on a pair of cotton socks afterward so it stays on my feet instead of the sheets, and after two or three weeks of doing that most nights, the clippers go through much more easily. Wash your hands after, and keep it off any cracked or broken skin, where it can sting. One warning, though. A thick nail that’s also yellow, crumbly or flaking should be seen by a doctor before you start working on it, because those signs often point to nail fungus.

Picking a tool that cuts straight

The clippers most of us grab for fingernails have a curved blade, and a curved blade cuts a curve, which is the exact shape you don’t want on a toe. They’re also too narrow for a big toenail, so you end up chewing a wavy line across it in five or six tiny bites.

Straight-edge clippers for everyday trims

Tweezerman stainless steel straight-edge toenail clipper

For regular trims I’d get a straight-edge toenail clipper and call it done, since that’s all most people ever need. The Tweezerman Stainless Steel Toenail Clipper has a flat, wide jaw that reaches across a big toenail and leaves a straight line, which means the tool does half the shaping for you. Its sharp stainless blade cuts cleanly instead of crushing the nail. I keep mine with my foot stuff so it doesn’t vanish into the junk drawer.

Nippers for thick nails

Huing podiatrist-style toenail nippers for thick nails

For thicker nails, try nippers. The Huing Podiatrist Toenail Clippers look like little pliers with a short, sharp blade and a spring, and they let you put the blade right where you want it with more cutting power behind it. The long handles help a lot with really thick nails, which often come from age, old injuries or years of running.

Nippers do feel awkward the first couple of times, so give yourself a few trims to get used to them. No matter which toolyou use, work across the nail in three or four small bites, starting from one side, and stop right before the corners. One huge squeeze through a thick nail can split it, and those splits tend to travel down toward the skin.

Filing the corners without rounding them

Bona Fide Beauty Czech glass nail file

A freshly cut square corner can feel pointy, which I suspect is the whole reason so many of us round them. You don’t have to. I give it a single light stroke with a file, tilted just a bit, and the point is gone while the edge stays straight. My favorite for this is the Bona Fide Beauty Czech Glass Nail File, since the etched glass is fine enough to smooth a corner without eating into it, and you can wash it, unlike an emery board.

I’m a picker, the kind who can’t leave a rough edge alone once I’ve felt it, so I have one in my purse and one next to the couch. Smoothing the snag right then keeps me from ripping it, and a rip leaves a jagged point under the surface, which is precisely the shape that ends up in your skin.

Keeping your clippers clean

When you trim close to the nail it’s easy to nick the skin, and clippers that travel from toe to toe and then sit in a drawer for weeks can carry along whatever was on the first toe, fungus included. If one of your nails looks discolored, thick or flaky, trim that one last.

CURAD 70% isopropyl alcohol prep pads box

Afterward I wipe the blades with CURAD Alcohol Prep Pads, let them dry in the air and put them away dry. They’re 70% isopropyl and individually wrapped, so a box lives in the bathroom drawer and one pad does both blades. It’s thirty seconds, tops. I don’t share my clippers with anybody, even people in my own house.

A good salon sterilizes its toolsand won’t blink if you ask to see the sealed pouch, and my piece on whether a gel pedicure is worth it covers what I’d check for at the front desk. In the chair, ask for straight across with the corners left alone, and politely turn down having the sides “cleaned out.” It feels amazing at the time, and it’s a very common way to end up with a sore corner two weeks later.

Your shoes matter as much as your clippers

Even a perfect trim won’t save you if your shoes are working against you. Narrow or pointy toes press the skin into the side of the nail for hours, and shoes that are too short push from the front. Downhill running and hiking are especially rough, because every step jams your toes forward, and that’s why runners are often told to go up a size and leave about a thumb’s width of room in front of the longest toe.

ForPro Sole gel toe separators

By dinnertime on long work days my toes sometimes feel squashed, and on those nights I’ll wear ForPro Sole Toe Separators for an hour while I watch TV. They’re soft gel, they stay put without pinching, and they spread things out a little to take some pressure off the skin along the nails. They’re not a fix for an ingrown nail, but after a day in work shoes they feel wonderful.

The skin next to the nailneeds some love too, since dry, cracked skin splits more easily under pressure, and a little moisturizer at night really helps. I walk through my own routine in the guide to keeping feet smooth between pedicures, and you’ll find lots more in our nails archive.

If a corner is already sore

Dr Teal's fragrance-free Epsom salt soak bag

In the early stage, the side of the toe hurts when you press on it and might look a little pink, but there’s no pus, no warmth and no redness creeping outward. That’s when home care makes sense. Soak the foot in warm water for ten to twenty minutes a couple of times a day, dry it well, and wear open shoes or sandals as often as you can get away with it. Plain water works, though I usually throw in a scoop of Dr Teal's Fragrance Free Epsom Salt Soak just because it feels nice, and the fragrance-free one is gentle on a tender toe. I keep the water comfortably warm, not hot, and sit with a book so the full fifteen minutes actually happens instead of the three I’d manage otherwise. And I know it’s tempting, but don’t cut the nail shorter to try to free it. Let it grow out past the skin, which usually takes a little patience but saves you a much sorer toe later.

The trick of cutting a Vinto the middle of the nail is an old myth, because nails don’t grow in from the center. Digging at the corner with clippers, a needle or a file usually leaves a sharp point behind and gives you a new wound on skin that’s already angry. Podiatrists sometimes slip a wisp of cotton under the edge with sterile supplies, but at home that cotton tends to hold moisture and germs right against broken skin.

If two or three days of soaking and roomy shoes don’t calm it down, call a podiatrist. They can numb the toe and take out the problem sliver in a few minutes.

When to skip home care completely

If you have diabetes, nerve damage, poor circulation, or anything else that affects how your feet feel or heal, the usual advice doesn’t apply to you. I’d keep to gentle straight-across trimming and leave everything else to a podiatrist, since with less feeling you could miss a small cut, and with poor circulation it may heal slowly. Foot infections can get serious quickly for people in this group, and regular nail care with a podiatrist is the standard recommendation.

Get to a doctor or podiatrist soon if the toe is red or the redness is spreading, or it’s swollen, warm, leaking pus, bleeding or very painful, or you’re running a fever. Those point to infection, and an infected toe needs to be looked at, not soaked. The same goes for an ingrown nail that keeps coming back on the same toe, since a quick in-office procedure can often stop it for good.

Please remember this is general information from someone who writes about nails, not medical advice, so if your toe has you worried, let a professional take a look at it.

What people search about trimming toenails

Should you cut toenails straight across or rounded? Straight across. Rounding leaves the corners short, and short corners are the ones that grow into the skin.

How often should you trim your toenails? Roughly every six to eight weeks, since they grow slowly. A nail catching on your socks is a good reminder.

Is it better to cut toenails wet or dry? Dry, or pretty close to it, because a wet nail bends and tears instead of cutting cleanly.

Can an ingrown toenail go away on its own? A mild one often settles in a few days with warm soaks and roomy shoes. If it turns red, swells or starts draining, see a doctor.

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